The Snippet - Past News of the Silver Trade

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HENRY LIEBE & SON

Newark, New Jersey


Henry L. Leibe & Son, making gold lorgnettes, have moved their plant from 24 Boudinot street to 276 Railroad avenue.

Source: The Metal Industry - December 1913

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REMOVAL OF J.A. BABCOCK

New York


The well-known firm of J.A. Babcock, Silverware Manufacturers, have removed from their old stand, No. 60, to their new premises at No. 76, Maiden Lane.

Source: The Watchmaker and Jeweler - January 1870

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GOLD AND SILVER IN LEATHER WORK

London


In the highest class fancy leather Work gold and silver plays an important part. Mounts, corners, bands, locks, rims, monograms, etc., in both these metals are largely used on all kinds of articles, such as purses, note folds, bag fittings, photo frames, etc.

A square photo frame made with perfectly flat moulding, covered in morocco with a strut let in the back so that it will stand at a slight angle, would not perhaps strike the reader‘s imagination as being particularly artistic, but if one were placed before him, made in the highest class style with silver-gilt bands across the corners, and a gilt “ mat " or mount under the glass, he would at once realise what an elegant thing such a plain simple frame could be made to look.

Silver screw tops to bottles in dressing-bags are also a large feature in the trade. The cost of these bags of the best make easily runs into three figures. It will be understood by this that the fittings are quite elaborate. There will, perhaps, be a dozen bottles with silver or gold tops; these bottles are used to hold soaps, scents, tooth brushes, hair pins, and other requisites for the toilet. This, quite independent of leather fittings, wells the cost considerably.

I know one firm who employ just an equal number of leather workers and silversmiths. The work is of a very high order. It is quite an every day occurrence for the bag fittings in the fitted bags they turn out to be mounted in gold or silver. A bag of this description, with its silver or gold-topped bottles, its instrument board, blotters and jewel box, with rims of the same metal; its natty little mirror enclosed in a box tray (technically called a "box mirror," to distinguish it from the "flap mirror"), from which it is drawn by a ring or tab, standing automatically as it is pulled out ready for use; its ivory backed brushes contained in morocco bands, the bristles being protected by other bands of the same material; its elegant watered silk lining matching the leather in colour, is a picture of artistic skill and design that would please the most fastidious taste.

It must not be thought that silver and gold work is equal in quantity to the leather work. The firm spoken of above was an exception; metal work was a speciality with them.

Generally speaking, fancy leather goods manufacturers buy their mounts, rims, etc., from working silversmiths, who lay themselves out to cater for the trade. I should say, roughly, the proportion of labour involved in metal work applied to leather goods would be from ten to fifteen per cent. in good class shops.

There is room for extension in this direction, and should these paragraphs meet the eye of any capable of producing original specialities, I am sure that judicious advertising would bring them patronage.


Source: The Leather World - 11th April 1912

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CONSPIRACY TO ROB THE GOLDSMITH'S STOCK Co.

Toronto


Toronto, Can., Aug. 2.—At the Police Magistrates’ Court to-day Gerard Fudger, aged 18, Samuel Blake and Frederick Roots were charged with robbery of the Goldsmith's Stock Co. Fudger is a nephew of the president of the company and was a trusted employe. He absconded when the thefts were discovered, but returned and made a full confession.

The thefts had been going on for over a year. At first articles of but little value were stolen, but the operations of the conspirators were gradually increased, Fudger, who had access to the company’s vaults, becoming hopelessly involved in the power of those who got the greater share of the spoil. In consideration of his youth and his having returned voluntarily and told all he knew he was let off with a sentence of three months, imprisonment. Samuel Blake and Frederick Roots pleaded not guilty and were committed for trial, Fudger testifying against them. The hearing of the charges against Frank W. Smythe, Francis Wurster and Frank Cable was adjourned until the 7th.

Walter J. Barr, manager of the Goldsmith’s Stock Co., states that all the ramifications of the conspiracy have not yet been traced. Evidence now in the hands of the detectives implicates several other parties in addition to those now under arrest.


Source: The Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review - 7th August 1895

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DISAPPEARING GOLD

London


The annual report of the Master of the British Mint suggests reflections as to the very considerable and somewhat mysterious disappearance of gold coin from circulation. The mint estimate of gold coin in circulation in 1895 was £62,500,000. Since then there have been issues to the end of 1903 totaling £57,680,000 and £15,414,000 has been received from Australia. The aggregate, therefore, should be 1,135,600,000, so that after withdrawals of light coin amounting in the interval to £19,100,000 have been deducted there should be 1,116,500,000 in circulation. The Master of the Mint, however, estimates that there is only £63,500,000, so that the very large amount of £53,000,000 remains to be accounted for. Jewelry requirements, foreign mint demands, bullion transactions and the accumulations of foreign governments are deemed to be the probable explanations.

Source: Bradstreet's Weekly - 23rd July 1904

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DISAPPEARING GOLD (II)

United States


Following on the above report in Bradstreet's Weekly, the Japan Weekly Mail reported:

It is interesting to note that an American newspaper, the Wall Street journal, recently declared that “ the increase in the production of gold has been nothing less than marvellous. In 1873 the world’s stock of gold was estimated at $1,209,800,000. On January 1,1903, the world’s stock of gold was estimated at $5,382,600,000. Here is a gain of $4,000,000,000 in thirty years. The Wall Street Journal a few days ago published statistics showing that the gold production since the year 1800 had amounted to 58,903,400,000. In all the preceding years since the discovery of America by Columbus the total production was $2,456,800,000. More gold has been produced since 1891 than in the three centuries preceding 1800. Of the total production of gold since the discovery of America, nearly one-half of it has been mined in the last thirty years, and of this amount 30 per cent. was produced by the United States.

“ But, while the enormous production of gold may well amaze us, the problem of its distribution puzzles us. Where has all the gold gone to that has been produced since the Lydians began to coin money? The world’s production of gold since 1873 accounts for all except about $800,000,000 of the present stock of gold in the world, and the production from 1860 to 1872 was more than double $800,000,000. Where, then, has all the gold gone to that was mined before 1860? Apparently there is no trace of it anywhere, unless it be found in the art objects in which gold is used.

“ The amount of gold that goes into the arts and sciences varies each year, and its amount is by no means easy to determine. The Director of the American Mint estimates that in 1902 the industrial consumption of gold amounted to $75,764,400. The total production of gold in that year was about $295,000,000, so that the use of gold in the arts and industries amounted to a little over 25 per cent. of the amount mined. Accepting this percentage as a basis for calculation, it would appear that of the total production of gold from 1492 to 1903, amounting to $10,985,181,000, the proportion that went into the arts and industries was $2,746,295,250. This leaves a balance of $8,238,885,750, which should appear, it would seem, in the records of the world's stock of gold. But, as a matter of fact, the total stock of gold in the world on the first of January, 1903, was, as has been stated, $5,382,600,000. This leaves $2,856,285,750, of which there appears to be no trace.

“ Has this vast wealth been lost in the past four centuries, or is any large proportion of it still in existence, a hidden reserve upon which drains may be made in times of special demand? Various answers, it is evident, might be made to such an inquiry. Professor J. Laurence Laughlin, of Chicago, last year hazarded a guess as to the disappearance of this large sum of gold, which he estimated in 1901 as amounting to $1,500,000,000, but which, on the basis of the estimate which we have made for 1903, should be more than $2,800,000,000. Professor Laughlin suggests that this immense sum is largely held in reserve ' by great financial houses in Europe, and by many other private bankers, the character of whose business does not require them to make public reports of their specie holdings.’

“ If Professor Laughlin’s guess is correct, this is a fact of enormous importance. One thing is certain, that the amount of gold in the world must be 'very much larger than the estimates made by the Director of the Mint show. In view of the immense needs of the various governments of the earth during the next few years, and of the efforts that are being put forth to put China and Mexico on the gold basis, the probability that there is more gold in reserve than appears in the records should inspire increased confidence.”


Source: The Japan Weekly Mail - 20th August 1904

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THE CARE OF THE SILVER SERVICE

New York


Out of sight of the patrons of the Waldorf-Astoria in New York City, but contributing largely to that hotel's reputation for service, stands a row of machines that are responsible for keeping the silverware bright and shining. Their daily task is to provide clean silver, the thing that adds the charm and pleasing attractiveness so essential to perfect table service. This equipment is known as the “Thara” Automatic Silver Burnishing Machines. It was assembled before shipment from one of the factories of the American Laundry Machinery Company, of Cincinnati, Ohio. These machines are now being used by many of the foremost hotel proprietors of the United States, and have received the endorsement of leading silverware manufacturers throughout this country and Europe.

This burnishing machine restores silverware to its original lustre and finish. with no injurious effects to the silver, as it does not remove the delicate plating, but rather has the effect of hardening and preserving it. The same silverware when new undergoes this burnishing process at the factory, where skilled silversmiths rub over the surfaces of the pieces with burnished steel'tools, so smooth that they cannot possibly scratch or remove the silver itself, but add to it a mirror-like finish.

The first cost of the silver service in any hotel represents considerable outlay; but unless the management has installed the proper kind of equipment for its care, it does not, after three months use in the dining-room, represent the amount of money invested.

The attempt to burnish silverware by hand, however, is much too costly for a hotel, cafe or club; so experiments led to the perfecting of a machine to do the same work mechanically, and on a large scale. The machine consists of a round wooden cylinder or barrel, containing hundreds of thousands of small silver balls and pins, each one of which is really in itself a burnishing tool. A piece of silverware_ is placed in the barrel, and covered by a mass of the steel balls and pins. The barrel is then closed and slowly revolved, and the action of the tools upon the surface of the silver results in a bright, perfectly burnished surface.

With the old methods of using a buffing wheel or scratch brush, it was difficult, if not impossible, to clean the inside of hollow ware satisfactorily, while the little tools are able to go into the spout and through the strainer of tea-and coffee-pots, so that they come out looking like new both on the inside and outside.


Source: Commercial America - October 1917

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DEATH OF G. W. BROOKS

Newton, Massachusetts


Well Known Maker of Silverware Cases Passes Away at Newton, Mass., in His 77th Year

Boston, Mass.. April 29.—Major George W. Brooks, for 44 years identified with the jewelry business, making jewelry and silverware cases under the firm name of the Brooks Mfg. Co., at 221 High St., died at his home-in Newton last night.

Major Brooks, who was the youngest volunteer to go to the Civil War from Newton, was born in Lamoine, Me., and was in his 77th year. He was a member of Edward W. Kinsley Post 113, G. A. R., the Boston Chamber of Commerce, the Boston City Club, and of the Blue Lodge and Aleppo Temple.

At the outbreak of the Civil War Major Brooks enlisted as a drummer boy when only 16 years of age. He was discharged on account of sickness but, recovering, he again enlisted and remained until the end of the war. He subsequently became identified with the Dennison Mfg. Co., and later started in business for himself.

Deceased is survived by his widow, an adopted daughter and three sisters.


Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 3rd May 1922

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THE FRENCH IMPERIAL EAGLES TAKEN AT THE BATTLE OF CORUNNA

Chichester, Sussex


Chichester, Jan. 31. — A circumstance has occurred this morning which should be known. Two of the French imperial eagles which were taken in the battle of Corunna, were sold yesterday at Barker's, the silversmith's, in this town : they are of silver, and weigh, about 15 ounces. The man, who said he bayoneted the Frenchmen, was a Highlander of the 92d, or Gordon's; and I cannot account for his selling such a noble trophy of British courage and discipline, unless from absolute necessity. Some of our regiments have before taken the pole that supported the standard, but never the thing itself, and Bonapartè has particularly exulted that they never were taken.

Source: The Lady's Magazine - February 1809

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WEIDLICH BROTHERS Mfg. Co.

Bridgeport, Connecticut


Louis Weidlich, 74, president and treasurer of Weidlich Bros. Mfg. Co., Inc., Bridgeport, Conn., manufacturers of silver products, died July 21st. Mr. Weidlich established the company 50 years ago. He is survived by his widow and two brothers.

Source: The Jewelers' Circular-Keystone - August 1950

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THE FERNALD COMPANY

Attleboro, Massachusetts


The Fernald Company, capital $20,000, has been organized to manufacture triple-plated platinum jewelry here. Fernald Hutchins of Dedham, John J. Coady and David E. Fitzgerald of Attleboro, are the incorporators.

Source: The Metal Industry - March 1912

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THE GOLDSMITHS' COMPANY PRIZES

London


It is a matter of regret that the prizes annually offered for some time past by the Goldsmiths' Company are this year withheld. It has been urged that such competitions do little to advance artistic execution among young members of the craft, because the prizes are generally carried off by handi-craftsmen in the prime of life; but the conclusion is not warranted, for it is within our knowledge that a study of the works produced in competition by the master hands have in many cases acted as an incentive to more humble workers to their marked benefit.

It would have been easy to improve the conditions of competition by introducing a limit as to age, and in other ways to more directly encourage the rising generation of workers in precious metals. It is certainly possible to accomplish much good by means of competitive production, and to the Goldsmiths' Company we naturally look for lead in the matter. Let us hope that the Court of the Company will even now issue a programme of prizes for the present year.


Source: The Horological Journal - April 1885

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JULY 4th CELEBRATIONS

New York


Maiden Lane Stores Patriotically Decorated

Whenever an opportunity is offered New York jewelers to display their patriotism they do so with the vim and enthusiasim that have always been characteristic of the craft. This is fully illustrated on the occasion of every national celebration during the year from New Years day to Christmas. Last Friday, the day before the historical July 4th, was no exception, and a Circular reporter noticed the following patriotic displays :

A large red rose graced the center of Oliver M. Farrand's window, while on both sides were open scrolls artistically formed by gold chains and other jewelry bearing the words July 4, 1776, and July 4, 1891, made of lace pins and bracelets of diamonds and other precious stones. In the East window a large satin paper eagle spread its wings to be covered with watches, charms, etc.

E. A. Thrall, always among the first to recognize public events by appropriately dressing his window, showed an American flag formed entirely of ladies’ watches. The stars were represented by open-faced time pieces, while the stripes and borders consisted of diamond-mounted and plain gold hunting cases.

Three flags formed the decoration of the Gorham Mfg. Co.’s window and the skilful manner in which they were arranged attracted general attention. One flag formed the background of the exhibit, on which there were many pieces of silverware, while the sides and top were draped with two others. The general appearance of the display was distinctly American.

Three stars and stripes ornamented the window of E G. Webster & Son, and a small silk flag on a blue bed made the stock shown in Henry Abbott's window an attraction to pedestrians.

E. S. Johnson & Co. modestly hung two standards from the tops of their windows.



Source: The Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review - 8th July 1891

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JEWELRY FASHIONS

Philadelphia


Fancy Jewelry, this year, runs Into the most extravagant shapes. It takes such forms as small lamps, lanterns, parakeets on their perches, bells, and jockey-caps. There are also flowers, with dew-drops In diamonds, arrows which seem to pierce the ears, small guns, pistols, and all sorts of garden implements. In sleeve-links the variety is equally astonishing. There are small plates, copied in enamel, postage-stamps likewise in enamel, scarabeee, monograms, coats-of-arms, swallows, horse-shoes, etc. To sum up all these vagaries of fashion, the cat's-eye is the favourite stone, the club on the playing-card the favourite form, and the porte-bonheur is the favourite ornament. Lockets are not nearly so fashionable as last year; black velvet is worn round the throat with an evening toilette, and either a pendant of precious stones, or ancient enamel, is suspended from it. The taste for antique jewelry and ornaments is so great, and such absurd prices are asked, that nobody should buy without a full knowledge of the value of what is offered, for Imitations are on sale which almost defy detection. For example, the Russian chains called Danicheff, composed of silver, lozenges, and terminating with a Russian cross, are sold in quantities as old jewelry, whereas, with the exception of one perhaps in a hundred, they are all modern.

Source: Peterson's Magazine - March 1877

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COLONEL BIGNEY'S WARNING

Attleboro, Massachusetts


Col. S. O. Bigney, a manufacturing jeweler of Attleboro, speaking for the jewelers of New England, sounded a note of warning to the jewelry trade, relative to the competition to be expected from Germany. He declared that he was convinced from evidence in his possession that an attempt to undermine American jewelers even In their home market is under way. He pointed out that the orders for one-twelfth of a dozen of many different designs have become so frequent as to attract attention, especially as they are not followed by later orders. He claims to have further located orders given to designers and engravers for work at their own price, but nothing has ever been heard from the samples that they supply.

Source: The Metal Industry - March 1921

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GOLD FOR IRON

Berlin


Among the novelties of London jewelry are ornaments made of iron. Berlin once adopted the fashion, but it was during a moment of national pecuniary difficulty, when ladies patriotically brought their jewelry and precious stones to the mint as a gift to the country. The gallant country by and by gave them a pleasant surprise, by sending them fac similes of their jewelry in beautifully cast iron which bore stamped upon it the words, “ I gave gold for iron.” This iron jewelry is still a treasured heirloom in the aristocratic Prussian families.

Source: The Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review - August 1884

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LUXURY TAX CAUSING A DECLINE IN BUSINESS

Canada


The luxury tax is undoubtedly encouraging thrift, and, some jewelers claim, is spoiling trade.

"Luxury tax of $80,'' growled a prosperous looking man, in a local jeweller shop to-day, as he picked out two rings. "That is an outrage. I won't take them. I do not mind paying $200 for each ring, but I am damned if I will pay another hundred as a tax. No, sir. You keep your rings."

"If I could have included the tax with the price of the ring, he would undoubtedly have bought the two rings," moaned the salesman. "That is the way with people who can afford diamonds, and who do not know their real value. The more they cost, the more they like them, provided they really have the money to buy them. The newly rich, especially, like to pay a great deal, in order to have a chance to tell their friends how much them little sparklers cost them."


Source: The Winnipeg Telegram - 7th August 1920

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OBITUARY OF R.H. ROTHERHAM

Coventry


We regret to have to record the death of Mr. R. H. Rotherham, of the firm of Rotherham and Sons, watch manufacturers, Coventry. The deceased gentleman had been connected from his boyhood with the firm of which he was the head, having served an apprenticeship to the trade. He was distinguished by an active benevolence, and generous disposition; and as founder of that excellent Institution, the Coventry Watchmakers' Widows' and Orphans' Aid Society his name will long be held in affectionate remembrance. The estimation in which he was held by his workpeople is best evinced by the fact of their having a few years ago presented him with a splendid piece of plate of the value of 100 guineas, on the occasion of his having completed 50 years in the business. In his death British commerce loses one of its worthiest sons, and his native city one of its most honoured citizens. Mr. Rotherham was in his 75th year. The firm of which he was senior partner have been members of the Institute almost from its commencement.

Source: The Horological Journal - 1st May 1864

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ARTIFICIAL RUBIES

France


The experiments of MM. Fremy and Verneuil on the artificial production of rubies have been in progress for some years, but it appears from their recent communication to the Comptes-Kondus that "they have now successfully overcome the difficulties which attend their manufacture, and are obtaining much larger crystals. The artificial rubies have already been employed as pivots in watches, and are said not to be inferior to the natural stones in hardness. The process consists in heating alumina and trace of potassium bichromate with barium fluoride or a mixture of fluorides of the alkaline earths to a high temperature for several days. Recent progress has been due to the discovery that the addition of a small quantity of potassium carbonate to the mixture, so as to render the fused mass alkaline, facilitates the formation of the crystals. It is believed that the crystals are produced directly from the interaction of the volatile compounds produced, and by employing crucibles of several liters capacity in gas furnaces as much as 3 kilos, of rubies are obtained in a single operation."

Source: Bradstreet's Weekly - 28th March 1891

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A CHAT WITH A JEWELLRY DESIGNER

London


An earnest eyed, quiet looking lady,who sat behind a glass case, rose and greeted me pleasantly, says a writer in the London Queen. A few minutes later she had opened the case and had brought forth some of its treasures, which I looked at with admiration.

“ Take it into your hand,” she said, reassuringly, of a light bracelet of finely wrought filigree ; “ it is quite solid. That design is taken—and when I say taken, I mean adapted, for I never imitate—from a bracelet shown in one of Holbein’s portraits. You remember Holbein was himself a working jeweler as well as a painter. He never represents an ornament in his pictures that is not a practical design.”

“ And what wonderful enamel this is ! ” I exclaimed, as a wreath of rose leaves in the most delicately melting tints caught my eye.

“Ah,” she replied, ‘‘the secret of good enamel is to use only 22 karat gold. Only the finest gold takes enamel properly. That necklace? I am glad you like aquamarines ; so do I, and I think they’ll look well with the bright ruby color of the enamel true-lovers-knots that are threaded between each stone. The brooch that you have in your hand is made of a sard scarabæus, two thousand years old. Here is a crystal dolphin, with a black pearl in its mouth ; that is the Renaissance style.”

Then I asked whether a drawing might not be made, as jewelry, like every other form of art, can only be proved by its own works. But this request was courteously denied. “ I never repeat a design,” said the mistress of the establishment, ‘‘if a lady tells me that she permits her own ornament to be copied for a friend, well and good ; then I have it reproduced. But I sell my jevvelry on the understanding that each design is unique, and will never be multiplied, except with the purchaser’s sanction, conscquently I must not let my designs become general property. There are.” she went on, a few people still left who like to possess an ornament that is individual, that is not machine made.”

“It was in the time of Sir Henry Cole that I learned to design at South Kensington,” she continued. “ But I did not go to South Kensington to study the applied arts. Like other young women my ideal was to become a painter, and to draw the figure. But it happened one day that I was set to design a pattern for a carpet, and Sir Henry Cole saw it. Now, Sir Henry was rather despotic where the individual was concerned. His one thought was for the honor and glory of the school. So when he espied my drawing he said ; “ For the future you shall design nothing but carpets, young lady.” After that he had one of my designs sent to a large carpet manufacturer, who replied that he liked it, but that it did not fulfil practical requirements. The manufacturer then went on to say what the actual requirements were, giving the rule measurements for weaving, and concluded by promising that if I could master these details so as to make a design in accordance with them he would take my work. This put me on my mettle, and giving my mind to the subject I mastered it in a short time sufficiently to offer a practical design, which the manufacturer, who, I believe was not a little surprised, accepted.”

“Yet you became a goldsmith ? ” “Yes, and in a manner accidentally. Mr. Blank, the jeweler, asked me whether I knew of anyone to recommend as a designer. That was how I became a designer of jewelry. Then about three and a half years ago I took this house and set up in business as a
manufacturing jeweler. At first, when I was with Mr. Blank, I thought that I could be quite content to do my designing in the back premises, but that I could never bring myself to serve in the shop, but one gets over these prejudices in time.”

“ And here you actually manufacture jewelry, do you? ” “ Yes, I have a number of workmen employed here, and I take apprentices; they are bound for three years. Most of them are the sons and often the grandsons and great grandsons of men who have been in the same trade, for goldsmiths’ work seems to be hereditary.”


Source: The Jewelers' Circular and Horological Review - 17th April 1895

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