The Snippet - Past News of the Silver Trade

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FIRE TRUCK SMASHES INTO JEWELERS

Philadelphia


A fire truck responding to an alarm crashed into the window of the jewelry store of I. Press & Sons, 8th and Chestnut Sts., Monday morning, Feb. 26. Jewelry was thrown in the street, but was recovered.

Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 7th March 1917

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SPANISH INFLUENZA

Philadelphia


Two Philadelphia Jewelers Dead and Others Suffering from Attacks of the Plague

PHILADELPHIA, Oct. 4.—Philadelphia has been swept by the Spanish influenza plague, and many jewelers are victims. Radical steps have been taken by the Health Department of both the city and State to stop the plague, but so far without success. Already theatres, schools and saloons have been closed, and the Health Departments have forbidden persons to congregate.

Several deaths among jewelers and their relatives from the plague have been reported. Prominent among these are B. H. Lyon, treasurer of the G. S. Lovell Clock Co., 18 S. 10th St., who died last night; Miss Agnes Hueber, daughter of Christian Hueber, 927 N. 4th St.; Mrs. R. Milner, wife of R. Milner, 1319 Point Breeze Ave., and H. Clearfield, jeweler, at 610 Poplar St., who died yesterday.

Miss Hueber was a Philadelphia school teacher and noted throughout the United States as a swimmer, having been in contests as far west as the Pacific Coast. She was sick but a few days, dying last Tuesday.

William Schwenk, 731 Sansom St.; Robert Woodrow, with M. Sickles & Sons; Thomas Judge, with Jos. B. Bechtel & Co.; Ralph Thoman, Woodbury; W. H. Hurlburt, of Hurlburt & Sons; George Vovard, Manayunk, and M. E. Ballen, of 730 Sansom St., are sufferers from the disease.

Tomar & Venus, engravers, 715 Sansom St., were forced to close their shop because both of them have been sick, and Aaron Liebermann, watchmaker for Aisenstein & Gordon, is also suffering from the disease.


Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 9th October 1918

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INTERNATIONAL FLATWARE DESIGN COMPETITION

United States


An international design competition for Sterling silver flatware was announced recently by Craig D. Munson, president of the International Silver Company, Meriden, Conn. Designs from the contest will be used in International Sterling flatware. Collaborating in the contest are the American Craftsman’s Council, New York City, and the Museum of Contemporary Crafts in New York. Meyric R. Rogers, former curator of industrial art at the Art Institute, Chicago, Ill., and curator of the famed Garvin Collection of Early American Decorative Arts at Yale University, will be contest director.

Source: American Horologist and Jeweler - April 1959

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JEWELER'S SHOP BLOWN TO PIECES

Brooklyn, New York


Benjamin Sucher, 1705 Pitkin Ave., Brooklyn, arrived at his store last Thursday morning to find that the safe in his place of business had been blown to pieces and a couple of policemen standing guard over his stock. Not a single piece of jewelry was missing from the place. The explosion caused considerable excitement in the vicinity of the jewelry store, and created so much disturbance that the thieves ran away and did not attempt to gather up any of the booty. Members of the Cloakmakers’ Union were holding a meeting in the hall next door to the store, and when the explosion shook the building they ran to the street. A moving picture show was in operation on the ground floor of the same building, and it was emptied as quickly as was the hall. The noise was heard at the Brownsville Police Station, and the reserves were rushed to the scene. The policemen surrounded the block, but found no sign of the burglars. Inside the store the jewelry was scattered all over the floor. The police gathered it up and left a couple of policemen to watch it. The safe had been drilled from the back, and it is the opinion of the police that the thieves must have taken a position across the street after they lighted the fuse. They evidently were not experts as they did a poor job. How entrance to the store was gained is a mystery, as none of the windows or doors had been forced open. The burglars are believed to have had skeleton keys.

Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 7th December 1910

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FABERGÉ & Co. FAIL IN COURT AGAINST THE GOLDSMITHS' COMPANY

London


A case of very considerable importance to those engaged in the enameled jewelry and enameled silver trade was heard in London in the Chancery Division Nov. 7, when the famous Russian firm, Fabergé & Co., brought an action against the Worshipful Co. of Goldsmiths, which is the premier authority dealing with the question of assaying goods manufactured in gold or silver in Great Britain or imported into this country. Fabergé alleged that enamels and enamel work did not come within the provisions of the acts under which the Goldsmiths’ company are empowered to compel hall-marking, and Fabergé claimed a declaration from the court that none of the articles they had imported were gold or silver plate within the meaning of the Customs Acts of 1842, or any other Statutory Acts relating to the stamping or marking of gold or silver plate imported into Great Britain by manufacturers. On the other hand, the Goldsmiths’ company asserted that the goods did come under the provisions of the Acts and should therefore be sent to one or other of the assay offices in Great Britain for assay and hall-marking. The plaintiffs, Fabergé & Co. as is fairly well known, produce some very artistic enamel work, but, speaking from my own knowledge of their work, a great deal of it could very well be marked, and, as they send their goods to Great Britain for the purpose of sale in the ordinary commercial way, there can be no legitimate reason why they should not be compelled to offer the base of silver or gold for assay and marking, the same as Britishers are compelled to do. The result of the case was that the judge reserved judgment, and in the end gave it in detail, asserting that Fabergé & Co. failed to make good their claims, and that such goods as they produced when made for sale in Great Britain must be hall-marked at one or other of the British assay offices whenever the enamel is upon gold or silver.

Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 7th December 1910

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GORHAM SELLS HOTEL DIVISION TO INTERNATIONAL SILVER

United States


The hotel division of the Gorham Company, silversmiths, has been sold to the International Silver Co., of Meriden, Conn.

Source: Hospital Management - June 1946

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FIRE AT JEWELRY FACTORY

West Somerville, Massachusetts


M. W. Carr & Co., jewelry manufacturers, West Somerville, Mass., had a small fire in their celluloid department, which is located in a separate building from their regular factory and which is now being rebuilt.

Source: The Metal Industry - August 1904

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W. FRANK PURDY DEAD

New Canaan, Connecticut


W. Frank Purdy died at New Canaan, Conn., on December 23, at the age of 85. He was born in New York and in the capacity of an officer of the Gorham Company for 35 years, he fostered the work of American sculptors, among them Harriet Frishmuth and Anna Vaughn Hyatt.

Mr. Purdy started the sculpture department of the Grand Central Galleries and was director of the Solon Borglum school. He was a noted lecturer on sculpture and was once director of the Ferargil Galleries.


Source: The Art Digest - 1st January 1944

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THE DEATH OF JACQUES CARTIER

Dax, France


DIED

Jacques Cartier, 55, former board chairman of Cartier, Ltd., of London, after a long illness, at Dax, France, Sept. 10.


Source: Newsweek - 29th September 1941

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THE FAIRFAX GIANT

United States


Physician's Orders

The Fairfax Giant, sterling silver spoon, which was manufactured by the Gorham Company, is a giant in every respect. It is 4 feet 1/2 inch in height, weighs 263 troy ounces, with a bowl 11 inches by 17 inches, and has a capacity of four quarts. From it, 263 normal sized spoons could be made.

It has been traveling for three years, and was at Washington for President Roosevelt's inauguration ; at Los Angeles for the Olympics; Chicago for the Century of Progress, and is booked for 12 months ahead. A Baltimore paper said of this giant:

"An elderly gentleman, recently limited by his physician to take no more than a teaspoonful of whisky each day, is negotiating with a jewelry firm on North Charles Street for a sterling spoon in its window. It is several feet long, weighs 22 pounds, and the bowl has a capacity of one gallon."


Source: The Lather - September 1934

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JEWELLERY ROBBERY AT BARKERS OF KENSINGTON

London


Another haul of jewelry has just been made at a West London department store. Barker’s was visited overnight by thieves who adopted original methods in progressing from floor to floor. They cut the hose pipes with department store scissors and used these, knotted together, to haul themselves along the parcel chutes, which connect up the different floors of the store by dark tortuous windings. They worked in their stockinged feet, but left fingerprints on the lengths of hose pipe. They escaped by way of the roof, sliding some 70 feet to the ground down their hose pipe “rope.” Evidently they gained access to the store by mingling with the Christmas shopping crowds in the evening and concealed themselves on the premises until the store was closed. In the jewelry department they cleared out all small goods easily carried and ranging from gold watches to pearl necklaces, and worth some $5,000 to $7,500. The police think they were amateurs since several of the $125 watches were discarded and some imitation pearl necklaces taken instead. The jewelry show cases were carefully handled, and nothing was damaged. Clerks are now busy making an inventory of the stolen jewelry. Barker’s new store is intensely modern, and fitted with burglar alarms on all doors and windows, inside and out. By using the parcel chutes the thieves did not have to touch any windows or doors, once inside the store. This is the third big Kensington store robbery in 20 days. There is some humor in the Barker haul since the window dressers had been very busy with a display of jewelry items as Christmas gift lines, and it was these items, mostly, that the thieves packed into their “stocking.”

Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 22nd December 1927

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HUSTLED OFF THE STAGE

London


"Captain Leopold" and "Mr. B. Adams*" (manager), both of the Islington Empire Theatre, were summoned at Clerkenwell Court for assaulting Ernest Harley, a jeweller. Mr. Ricketts said that the summonses arose out of an item on the programme, which read:-

Miss Marie Rolfson, Norway's Queen of Mystery—the Human Dynamo—offers £20 to any person in the audience who can lift her from the stage. More, she defies ten men to lift her, yet can lift up ten men (at one time).

The captain invited fifteen people from the audience to act as a "jury." The complainant was one of these. He was sceptical about the performance, and expressed his opinion. He was hustled from the stage, and finally turned out of the theatre. The complainant supported this statement, stating that he received a blow. The defence was a denial of any assault, and a suggestion that the complainant was disorderly on the stage and caused a scene and excitement amongst the audience. The summons was dismissed.


Source: The Weekly Mail - 14th May 1910

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FIFTY YEARS OF THE HALLMARKING ACT

United Kingdom


It will soon be Happy Birthday to the Hallmarking Act which was given royal assent on 25th July 1973 and came into force fully on 1st January 1975. 200 years earlier in July 1773, the newly created Sheffield and Birmingham Assay Offices each held meetings to elect their first Wardens. So much has changed to impact hallmarking since both of those dates, but still the rigorous statutory UK regime remains vitally important, protecting the trade and the consumer.

The 1973 Act had a difficult and prolonged birth as its creators worked to standardise over 600 years of legislation, eradicate archaic laws and create a simpler, more intelligible framework. It was first recognised that change and simplification were needed back in 1878 but it was 1955 before a committee finally began developing the current Act.

The Hallmarking Act 1973 specifically repealed thirty-five pieces of archaic and complex legislation, the oldest dating back to 1696. Several key changes were made to the regime which was by now 650 years old.

Date letters were standardised across all four Assay Offices making them far easier to interpret. Platinum was added and millesimal marks indicating the precious parts of metal per thousand, already in use for silver, were introduced for all (at the time) three precious metals. For gold hallmarks the use of 9ct, 18ct etc beside a crown was therefore replaced by 375, 750 etc.

Each Assay mark was clearly defined. Sheffield’s Crown assay mark which it had struck on silver since 1773 was replaced with the Rose, which had been introduced in 1904 when Sheffield began marking gold. The 1973 Act established the Rose alongside London’s Leopard’s Head, Edinburgh’s Castle and Birmingham’s Anchor for all items made in the UK.

So far so simple but items made outside the UK were still differentiated. Each Assay Office continued to apply a different assay mark assigned for imported items and only a millesimal fineness mark could be applied, without the accompanying traditional crown or sterling lion.

The 1973 Act also created the British Hallmarking Council to oversee the Assay Offices and ensure adequate provision for hallmarking in the UK. The body is entirely funded by the four Assay Offices whose representatives attend regular meetings alongside 19 members appointed by the Secretary of State and the Assay Offices as stipulated by the Act.

So, it is worth celebrating that nearly 100 years after a need for change was identified the new legislation came into force.

However, the talented and progressive jewellery industry never stands still. Since 1975 the Act has been amended numerous times in order to remain appropriate and relevant to an innovative and ever-changing industry now operating in a global market.

The most significant legislative changes were in 1999 in order to protect our uniquely independent, statutory system from EU Harmonisation within the Single Market. Differentiation according to source was abolished and the same Assay Office mark applied whatever the country of origin. To ensure a UK hallmark is intelligible to an international audience traditional marks became optional extras, as did date letters. In response to economic trends Mixed Metal rules were relaxed in 2007, to allow affordable items combining high priced precious metals with lower priced precious or base materials to be hallmarked and therefore described correctly. Hallmarking for Palladium was added in 2009, the fourth precious metal to require hallmarking.

In the meantime, the jewellery industry and its consumer market have progressed through radical changes. The four UK Assay Offices have a statutory duty to test and mark any item that falls within the legislation and their processes have had to keep up with new customer demands. X Ray fluorescence testing is quicker, cleaner and less damaging than traditional fire assay or titration analysis. It is the only acceptable way to assay finished, polished, items and to efficiently process the hundreds of small orders which have replaced the bulk batches of the early 2000’s. Laser marking has been developed for lightweight, hollow items which cannot tolerate the impact of a punch. Lean manufacturing and high metal prices demand a shorter critical path and “One hour” or “Same Day” services are in demand. Each of the Offices has invested heavily in training and technology to ensure their processes are fit for purpose.

With so much change happening in the background it is easy to overlook the original objective of hallmarking.

All the time, effort and investment over the past 50 years is intended to protect the trade from unfair competition and the consumer from being cheated. If the consumer is not aware of the benefits of a hallmark and therefore doesn’t check for it when buying it is all for nothing. Consumer education is vital. The BHC and the NAJ are strongly encouraging all members of the trade and particularly those who have interface of any sort with consumers to celebrate the hallmark within their business and with their customers as it reaches 50 years in its current format.


Source: British Hallmarking Council Press Release - 13th July 2023

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SILVER IN TITANIC MEMORIAL

Washington D.C.


A block of virgin silver from the mines in Bolivia will be one of the units used in the construction of a great memorial arch in Washington to honor the men who died on the Titanic that the women and children might live. It will be the most valuable piece of building material ever used in this country, if not in the world. The silver block will represent the contribution of the republic of Bolivia to the project planned by North American women to honor the bravery of men. The offer of this contribution has been made through Horace G. Knowles, American minister to Bolivia.

Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 21st August 1912

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THE NEW SHEFFIELD GOLD HALLMARK

Sheffield


In the gold and silver trades some interest has been evinced in a new development in Sheffield, where the establishment of a gold assay will, it is thought, do much to encourage Sheffield trade. This will certainly be the case in connection with the manufacture of the more expensive articles of Cutlery. Very considerable quantities have hitherto been made with silver scales and fittings. Owing to the cheapness of that metal they have gone very much out of favor, and such parts are now being made of gold of 9, 15 and 18 carat. These goods are being produced in increasing quantities, and it will no doubt encourage the trade if Sheffield’s Hall Mark can be placed on them, and on other goods made there. Hitherto it has been the practice to use a crown as Sheffield’s mark of origin. It has been decided now to give Sheffield a distinctive mark for all gold wares made, and that it will be the York Rose.

Source: The Iron Age - 23rd July 1903

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ROYAL AUTOGRAPHS WRITTEN WITH THE DIAMOND RINGS OF EUROPEAN MONARCHS

Copenhagen


King Haakon of Norway has presented to the Royal Museum in Copenhagen a window pane bearing the signatures of most of the rulers of Europe. It is taken from one of the windows in the parlor car of the royal train which belonged to King Christian of Denmark.

One day during a journey the Czar Alexander III scratched his name on the pane with the diamond of his ring, and his example was followed later by Nicholas II, who signed himself simply “Nicky”; the Empress of Russia, King Christian, the late King Edward, Queen Alexandra, King Haakon, King George of Greece, Queen Victoria of Spain and a number of other crowned European heads afterwards added their names.

Several window panes were recently broken while the car was undergoing repairs, and in order that the valuable pane should not suffer the same fate, King Haakon determined to entrust the unique document to the care of a museum.


Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 6th July 1910

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MYSTERY OPALS

Hungary


London, Feb. 27.—It is reported that negotiations are being opened with foreign jewel merchants by the Hungarian government for the disposal of a quantity of opals weighing 70,000 carats and valued at 100,000,000 kronen (nominally $20,000,000). No one, apparently, knows just where these gems came from. They were discovered in a large iron trunk in the treasury building during a general overhauling and inventory taking that had been ordered by the finance minister, Dr. Hegedus. The chest had been lying in the treasury building some time, it seems. The opals weigh nearly 31 pounds. The proceeds from the sale of the gems will be a welcome addition to government finances.

Source: The Jewelers' Circular - 9th March 1921

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ALLAN ALDER

Los Angeles, California


Allan Alder is working hard but happily with his craftsmen in handwrought silver. A new design of flatware that he calls Texas Modern has ebony handles, and he does your individual monogram or ranch brand in silver on the ebony handles.

Source: The Christian Science Monitor - 27th October 1947

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BAN ON JEWELLERY

Australia


The secretary of the Birmingham Jewellers' and Silversmiths' Association has received a letter from the High Commissioner of Australia to the effect that he has been advised by the Commonwealth Government that the importation into Australia of jewellery, imitation jewellery, and imitation precious stones has been prohibited except with the consent of the Ministry of Trade and Customs.

It is understood that the term jewellery covers all gold, silver, or imitation goods, but not such articles as pencil cases.


Source: The Horological Journal - September 1917

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COMPETITION FOR THE DESIGN AND MANUFACTURE OF RACING CUPS

London


The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths are organizing a competition, open to all workers in precious metals, for the design and manufacture of racing cups and trophies, and it is stated that the selected work will receive consideration when the designs are being chosen for certain important race trophies in 1927. The judges are Sir Edwin Lutyens, Mr. C. M. St.J. Hornby, Mr. Muirhead Bone, Mr. B. J. Fletcher, and Mr. F. Courthope. The Worshipful Company are desirous of raising the standard of craftsmanship, feeling, perhaps, that there is no reason why England should not join in the Renaissance in gold and silver work which is discernible in Denmark and Sweden. Another competition which the company is organizing is for the improvement of household plate, but, alas! I feel that little interest is now taken in household plate ; changing values have brought motor-cars and amusements to the fore, and there is little enough left for fine metalwork. Nevertheless, the aim of the Goldsmiths’ Company is to be approved, and I hope that interest will be restored in one of the most ancient of the crafts. A closer co-operation between commercial houses and designers and a more discriminating demand on the part of the public are essential, and these competitions may help to bring this about.

Source: The Architects' Journal - 3rd March 1926

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